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Wine in Sicily

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Wine figures of Sicily

Sicily is a region rich in history, art, and culture, but also a region with deep and ancient traditions linked to wine. Sicily, enchanting visitors with its countless natural beauties and scents, also impresses with the variety of its cuisine and the charm of its wines. Sicily is the birthplace of wines with a long history like Marsala, as well as fragrant dessert wines such as Passito di Pantelleria and Malvasia delle Lipari, not to forget Moscato di Noto and di Siracusa, robust red wines, and interesting white wines. These and many other wines have been the architects of Sicily’s oenological renaissance and have also made famous the grapes with which they are produced, such as Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia, Zibibbo, Malvasia, and Nero d’Avola.

The wine-growing territory of Sicily includes, beyond the island itself (the largest in the Mediterranean), the Aeolian Islands and Pantelleria. Other smaller islands or archipelagos are not significant in this regard. The vineyard area of Sicily is among the most important in Italy, about 107,000 hectares (about double that of a region like Emilia-Romagna or Tuscany and about 15% more than Puglia). The Sicilian territory is hilly for about 60%, mountainous for 25%, and flat for the remaining 15%.

Wine figures of Sicily

Wines in Sicily

Viticolture in Sicily

Sicily is one of the oldest and most productive wine regions in Italy, thanks to its favorable geographical location, exceptionally sunny climate, and variety of soils. These factors, combined with the richness of the viticultural heritage and technical innovations, have allowed Sicily to emerge as one of the most dynamic and interesting areas in the global wine scene.

Sicily boasts an extraordinary variety of soils, ranging from limestone to clay, from volcanic to sandy. This diversity is reflected in the wide range of wines produced on the island. The volcanic soils of Etna, for example, are rich in minerals and give the wines a marked minerality and freshness. In the southwest, the area of Menfi and the surrounding areas benefit from clayey and limestone soils that favor the production of structured red wines and aromatic whites. Other territories, like those near Vittoria, are known for their sandy soils, ideal for growing Frappato and Nero d’Avola, offering wines with remarkable elegance and intense aromas.

The climate of Sicily is Mediterranean, with hot, dry summers and mild winters, conditions that allow for optimal ripening of the grapes. The proximity to the sea moderates summer temperatures thanks to sea breezes, while higher altitudes, such as the slopes of Etna, benefit from significant temperature variations that contribute to enriching the aroma and freshness of the wines. Sicily receives an abundance of sunshine which, together with the scarcity of rain during the growing season, limits the risk of vine diseases and allows for sustainable viticulture and limited use of phytosanitary treatments.

History of Winemaking in Sicily

In Sicily, wine and viticulture have characterized its history since the very beginning. It is believed that vines grew spontaneously on the island long before the arrival of the Greeks. Many vine varieties, now considered indigenous, were introduced by the Phoenicians. Viticulture as such was introduced to Sicily during the 8th century BC by the Greeks. They introduced pruning techniques, bush vine cultivation, and varietal selection, which were previously unknown on the island. By the time of the Roman Empire, Sicilian wines were already among the most famous in the ancient world, widely exported and highly appreciated everywhere. One of the most famous Sicilian sweet wines was Mamertino. Other wines from that period include Potulanum, Tauromenitanum, and Haluntium. In later epochs, monastic settlements played a fundamental role in the modern development of oenology in Sicily. Under Byzantine rule, more than half of Sicily’s lands became the property of religious communities, for whom vine and wine were essential for the celebration of the Mass. During Arab rule (872-1061), wine production on the island declined, but with the Normans (1061-1194) and later the Swabians (1194-1266), Sicilian oenology showed clear signs of recovery.

During the Bourbon period, wine production was primarily focused on high-alcohol content wines, intended for blending. In 1773, a young Englishman, John Woodhouse, through his intuition and trading skills, contributed to the creation of one of the most famous and important wines of Italy, Marsala, destined to compete in the market of “travel” (fortified) wines with the then unrivaled Jerez and Porto. The most historic and prestigious Sicilian wineries were established in the 1800s, such as Duca di Salaparuta (1824), Florio (1836), Rallo (1860), Curatolo Arini (1875), and Carlo Pellegrino (1880). In 1880, Catania was the province with the most vineyards in Sicily, with about 92,000 hectares and about one million hectoliters of wine produced. In 1881, phylloxera decimated the vineyards, and in 1888 the breakdown of the trade agreement with France led to a sharp decline in exports. The restoration of the vineyards was only completed during the 1950s. However, the market had changed, and the demand for blending wines had greatly decreased. Finally, in the 1970s, the new development of Sicilian oenology began towards the results visible today. Today, the island’s wines are established worldwide, from the revival of the magnificent Marsala to the revaluation of the rich and local heritage of grapes.

Sicily's volcano vineyards
Vineyards in Etna Volcano area Image: Depositphotos.com

Wine grapes of Sicily

In Sicily, both indigenous grape varieties and international grape varieties are cultivated, the latter often used in blends with local grapes. The vine and wine are widespread throughout the Sicilian territory, and the island’s ampelographic heritage is quite interesting. Many of the island’s native grape varieties have been revaluated after having been at real risk of extinction and are today among the important grapes of Italy. Among these, the most famous indigenous black grape variety is Nero d’Avola, whose wines are characterized by intense aromas and imposing structures. Among the white grape varieties, the most well-known is Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria), with which the sweet wines of Pantelleria are produced, today considered among the best in Italy. Other important indigenous white grape varieties in Sicily include Carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico, Grillo, Inzolia (also known as Insolia or Ansonica), Malvasia di Lipari, and Moscato Bianco. Among the indigenous black grape varieties, we find Frappato, Nerello Cappuccio and Mascalese, and Perricone or Pignatello. The main international grape varieties cultivated in Sicily are Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Nero, and Syrah. Sicily also cultivates other varieties widespread at the national level, such as Sangiovese, Barbera, and Trebbiano Toscano.

Wine appellations of Sicily

Sicily’s denominations of origin for wine include a single DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, from the Ragusa area, produced with the Frappato grape variety. Vittoria DOC also includes white wines based on the Inzolia grape variety. Eloro DOC is dedicated to red wines, with types including Frappato, Nero d’Avola, and Pignatello. In the Syracuse area, there are Siracusa DOC and Noto DOC, based on the same grape varieties. We recall the Moscato di Siracusa (Moscato Bianco) which was once a separate DOC, now incorporated as a type within Siracusa DOC. In the Catania area, Etna DOC, whose vineyards located on the slopes of the volcano produce wines with a strong mineral characterization. In the province of Messina, we mention Faro DOC, one of the first in Sicily, based on the varieties of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Nocera. The Lipari Islands, with Malvasia delle Lipari DOC and the white wines of the Island of Salina (Salina IGT). In the province of Palermo, there are Contea di Sclafani DOC and Contessa Entellina DOC, which include a bit of all the types of wines of the island, while in the province of Agrigento we mention Sciacca DOC, Sambuca di Sicilia DOC, and Santa Margherita di Belice DOC. In the province of Caltanissetta, there’s Riesi DOC. The province of Trapani accounts for more than half of the vineyard area and the wine production in Sicily. This is also thanks to Marsala DOC, with the eponymous fortified wine based on the grape varieties Grillo and/or Catarratto (all varieties and all clones), and/or Ansonica (locally called Inzolia or Insolia) and/or Damaschino for Marsala oro and ambra; Perricone (locally called Pignatello) and/or Calabrese (Nero d’Avola) and/or Nerello Mascalese for Marsala rubino. Other DOCs in the province include Delia Nivolelli DOC, Erice DOC, and Salaparuta DOC. Lastly, we recall Moscato di Pantelleria DOC also in the passito version, obtained from 100% Zibibbo (Moscato di Alessandria) grapes. In total, the region counts 23 DOCs and 7 IGTs.

Agri-food products are represented by 21 PDOs including cheeses like Ragusano DOP and Piacentinu Ennese DOP, and Extra virgin olive oils (7 PDO denominations). The 14 PGIs of Sicily include Cappero di Pantelleria PGI and Pomodoro di Pachino PGI.

Wine areas of Sicily

All of Sicily is involved in viticulture and wine production. Among the wine-producing areas of the minor islands surrounding Sicily, Marsala, Pantelleria, and Lipari are certainly the most well-known, but other areas also deserve special attention. Sicily is known for its sweet wines, and in addition to the ones already mentioned, it is also worth mentioning the two DOCs, Moscato di Noto and Moscato di Siracusa. For white wines, we remember the DOCs of Alcamo and Etna, whose wines are known for their particular longevity. For red wines, we mention Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only DOCG in the region, and the Faro DOC, a very interesting area even though it is little known. Nero d’Avola is present in almost all Sicilian red wines, while among the most widespread white grape varieties in Sicily, Catarratto and Inzolia take the lead.

Marsala

Among the most important Sicilian wines, Marsala certainly holds a special place. This fortified wine was able in the past to counter the dominance of Porto, Jerez (Sherry), and Madeira among the “travel wines” marketed by the English. Marsala owes its notoriety to the English merchant John Woodhouse. After a century of dazzling notoriety, Marsala experienced a period of decline that began about twenty years ago. Today, Marsala, having shed the unfair image that saw it relegated only to culinary use, presents itself as a great wine, capable of extraordinary longevity. Marsala is a fortified wine produced with Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto, and Damaschino grapes. Marsala Vergine Stravecchio (with at least 10 years of maturation) is an explosion of aromas and flavors, with almost infinite persistence. Marsala is produced in the following styles: Fine (at least 1 year of maturation), Superiore (2 years), Superiore Riserva (4 years), Vergine o Soleras (5 years), Vergine Stravecchio o Riserva (10 years). There is also Marsala Rubino, a red wine, produced with Nero d’Avola, Perricone, and Nerello Mascalese grapes.

Pantelleria and Lipari

The sweet wines of Pantelleria and Lipari are certainly the most famous. Moscato and Passito di Pantelleria are produced on the homonymous island, south of Sicily, with the Moscato d’Alessandria grape variety, better known as Zibibbo. Currently, Passito di Pantelleria is garnering strong interest in the markets. Passito di Pantelleria is a fragrant, sweet, persuasive, and enchanting wine, an excellent match for aged cheeses and Sicilian pastries, especially those based on almonds. Malvasia delle Lipari is a sweet wine produced in the Aeolian Islands (north of Sicily), especially on the island of Salina. This fascinating passito wine is made from Malvasia di Lipari grapes with a small percentage of Corinto Nero. Malvasia delle Lipari is an elegant and complex wine, with a sweet and refined taste, suitable both to pair with aged cheeses and with rich Sicilian pastries, but it is also appreciated on its own as a meditation wine.

Etna

The Etna area is renowned for its unique volcanic wines, including Etna Rosso, made mainly from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio varieties, and Etna Bianco, mainly from Carricante grapes. These wines are appreciated for their elegance, minerality, and aging potential.

Vittoria

Famous for Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG, which combines Nero d’Avola and Frappato to create a fruity, fresh, and moderately tannic red.

Menfi and Sambuca di Sicilia

These areas are known for producing aromatic white wines and structured red wines, benefiting from a mix of soils ranging from clay to limestone.

Trapani

The vast viticultural area around Trapani produces a wide variety of wines, leveraging a mix of coastal climate and fertile soils, ideal for grapes like Grillo and Nero d’Avola.

Regional Cuisine of Sicily

Sicilian cuisine is the expression of a tradition that dates back to antiquity, closely linked to the historical, cultural, and religious events of the island. Already in Ancient Greece, the island’s culinary style and habits had their distinctive character, which over the centuries has been enriched with new flavors and dishes, following the historical vicissitudes of the Mediterranean island. Sicilian gastronomic culture shows traces and contributions from all the cultures that have settled on the island over the last two millennia, handed down from generation to generation. This explains why some recipes, of ancient origin, are still prepared and served at the table in Sicilian homes today.

Some of the most famous dishes of the Sicilian cuisine, now widespread globally, include Sicilian cassata, iris, Sicilian cannoli, granita, and rice arancini. Thanks to its mild climate, Sicily is rich in herbs and aromatic plants like oregano, mint, and rosemary, which are part of the most common Sicilian seasonings. Oranges and lemons are abundantly present. Almonds, prickly pears, pistachios, and olives are other fruits that characterize the Sicilian table.

A characteristic of Sicilian cuisine is having culinary specialties confined to certain areas, so a local dish presents variations not found by moving to other areas. Palermo’s Panelle or Mazara del Vallo’s Muccunetti are found practically only in their area of origin. This leads to defining distinct gastronomic areas such as western Sicily, central Sicily, and eastern Sicily.

Among the typical Sicilian appetizers, we remember Caponata, Orange salad, Eggplant parmigiana. Other typical appetizers of this region include Raw anchovies with lemon, Sicilian Bruschetta, Babbaluci a ghiotta (snails in soup), Battered vegetables, Sicilian cold frittata.

Among the first courses, Seafood couscous, fresh and flavorful, the famous Pasta with sardines, and Pasta alla carrettiera (with chopped tomatoes), Vermicelli alla siracusana, with tomato sauce, olives, and peppers, Timballo di maccheroni, red or white, Rice soup with chickpeas, and many others.

Second courses, both from the sea and the land, are an explosion of tastes and ingredients. Among fish dishes, we remember Sardine a beccafico, Swordfish alla siracusana, Sweet and sour capon. Among meat dishes, Breaded roast Palermitana style, Stewed lamb, Sicilian veal rolls, Bread meatballs, Eggs with peas.

Sicily is also the land of street food par excellence, with an incredible variety of preparations to enjoy on the go. For example, we recall the indispensable Rice arancini, but also Sicilian mafalde, typical sandwiches of durum wheat semolina, Palermo’s Panelle, tasty and delicious chickpea flour fritters, Ravazzate, dough stuffed with peas and meat ragù and baked, and Rizzuole, similar to the previous but fried.

Sicilian desserts and pastries are unparalleled, with their typical local ingredients and traditions passed down from generation to generation. Some examples are Sicilian cassata and Cannoli, famous worldwide, but also Sfincia, a typical dessert of St. Joseph’s Day, made from a spongy dough fried and covered with ricotta cream and embellished with candied fruit and pistachio granules. Biancomangiare made with almond milk and flavored with lemon zest and chopped dried fruit, Buccellato, created with dried figs, with which a filling is prepared that is enriched with almonds, walnuts, sultanas, cinnamon, and chocolate. Not to forget Granita with brioches, an institution throughout eastern Sicily, with various flavors to try: strawberry, coffee, almonds, mulberries, pistachio, lemon, and many others.

Quattrocalici Wine Guide