The Passerina grape is a white variety native to central Italy. Today, it is primarily grown in the Marche and Abruzzo regions, though its exact origin is disputed between the Marche and the Frosinone province. In the rest of Lazio, it is almost absent. The curious name Passerina seems to derive from “passeri” (sparrows), which are known to eat its small berries, although the grape is known under various synonyms, contributing to uncertainty about its origin. Passerina appears to belong to the Trebbiani family, with which it has often been confused, as well as with Bombino Bianco. Some believe it to be a mutation of Biancame, another native grape found in the Marche. Despite its higher quality, Passerina has lost ground in favor of Trebbiano Toscano, which offers higher yields and better resistance to adversities.
In recent years, Passerina has enjoyed significant success, often blended with Pecorino or vinified on its own, thanks to the Marche and Abruzzo appellations that have included it in their regulations. Notable examples from the Marche include Falerio dei Colli Ascolani DOC and Offida Passerina DOC, which allow for Vin Santo, Passito, and Spumante versions. In Abruzzo, it is used in blends (15-40%) in Controguerra Bianco DOC and Controguerra Passerina DOC, including Passito versions. In Lazio, it can be found as Passerina del Frusinate IGT.
The Passerina grape has medium to large pyramidal clusters, sometimes with wings, and medium density. Its small berries are golden yellow with a thick, waxy skin covered in heavy bloom. The grape is grown using expanded training systems and long pruning. Its ripening period is medium, typically at the end of September. Passerina is a vigorous variety with good and consistent yields. The grape musts have a high sugar concentration and strong acidity, which translates into the wines during vinification. When vinified, whether blended or in purity, Passerina contributes appreciated acidity to wines, which can also be made as Spumante, Passito, or Vin Santo.
In pure form, Passerina wines have a pale yellow color with greenish hues, and an aromatic range that includes tropical fruits, citrus, honeyed notes, and sometimes herbal hints, rounded out by spices. On the palate, the acidity is prominent but balanced by pleasant salinity and a slightly bitter finish. As a sweet wine, Passerina reveals dried fruit aromas and spicy notes of caramel and vanilla. The sustained acidity makes Passerina a good candidate for aging.
In terms of food pairing, dry versions of Passerina pair well with risottos, shellfish, fried dishes, or fish soups, as well as local specialties like Sarde alla Marchigiana. Passito wines are ideal with dry pastries, while Vin Santo pairs well with creams or blue cheeses. Spumante versions are best enjoyed with cured meats or fish appetizers.
