Nebbiolo is the quintessential autochthonous grape variety of Piedmont. Its name might derive from “nebbia” (fog), either because the berries are covered in a thick layer of pruina (wax bloom) or because it is harvested late in October when the vineyards are often shrouded in morning fog. Nebbiolo is undoubtedly the most prized and challenging red grape variety among Italian wines. The excellence of Nebbiolo production is concentrated in the Langhe, specifically in the Barolo and Barbaresco regions of Piedmont, as well as in Valtellina in Lombardy. Outside these prime areas, Nebbiolo grapes do not achieve the depth, power, and “nobility” that make them unique in the world.
Three main clones of the Nebbiolo grape have been identified: Lampia, Michet, and Rosé. The Michet clone offers low yields with particularly intense aromas and flavors, while the Rosé clone produces wines with very pale colors and is gradually disappearing. Most winemakers prefer working with a blend of the three clones to enhance the complexity of the final product. In other Piedmontese regions like Boca, Bramaterra, Fara, Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona, and Sizzano, Nebbiolo is known as Spanna. In Valtellina, it is called Chiavennasca.
In Ghemme and Gattinara, two small areas divided by the Sesia River in northern Piedmont between Vercelli and Novara, Nebbiolo is often blended with Vespolina, resulting in small productions (only about 100 hectares for Gattinara) that offer pleasant surprises. In the Boca DOC area, the rocky soils and temperature variations contribute to a refined bouquet and mineral nuances rather than tannic concentration. In Carema, a town on the border with Valle d’Aosta, the challenges of high-altitude viticulture have led many to abandon the vineyards, but the Nebbiolo produced here is extremely intense, with evolved tannins and notes of cherry liqueur, pepper, cocoa, rose petals, and the classic earthy mountain notes.
A similar scenario of steep terraced vineyards carved into the mountains can be found in Valtellina, the only true bastion of Nebbiolo outside Piedmont, where it is known as Chiavennasca. The local versions of Valtellina Superiore DOCG include Sassella, with very refined traits; Grumello, fresh with mineral notes; Inferno, perhaps the most robust and bold; and finally Valgella, lighter and more floral. Sforzato di Valtellina, also known as Sfursat, is made from bunches that are harvested and dried for three months, followed by a long vinification process to extract everything possible from the Nebbiolo skins, with at least 12 months of aging in barrels. Nebbiolo is also widely used in Valle d’Aosta, where it is called Picoutener.
