The Susumaniello grape variety is a black-skinned grape of probable Dalmatian origin, long cultivated in Puglia, especially in the province of Brindisi. Its name comes from its abundant productivity, which literally allowed it to “load the donkey.” The high yield of Susumaniello declines drastically with the age of the vine, reaching a maximum of just 1–1.2 kg per vine as the plant matures. The high productivity of young vines, combined with the intense coloration of its musts, historically led to its use in producing sweet filtered wine, which was sold to wineries in northern Italy. However, with the decline in demand for such products, interest in Susumaniello waned. Additionally, the modernization of vineyards and the transition from the bush-trained system to trellising nearly eradicated the variety.
The fact that mature vines produce lower yields, leading to more concentrated musts and good fixed acidity, has sparked a resurgence of interest in Susumaniello. It is now used to produce exceptional red wines, both as a varietal and blended with Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera di Brindisi. Susumaniello is characterized by small, round berries, with a high concentration of polyphenols and anthocyanins, producing deeply colored wines with very low acidity. In contrast, Negroamaro has very high acidity, and the relative organoleptic properties of Negroamaro are complemented and enhanced by Susumaniello.
