The Scimiscià grape variety is an indigenous variety from Liguria, which was nearly extinct but was saved thanks to the efforts of a few visionary producers. A small number of rows were preserved exclusively in the Val Fontanabuona, in the province of Genoa, in the immediate hinterland of Chiavari and Lavagna. In 2003, it was added to the list of recommended and authorized varieties for the Liguria region. Since then, it has been included in the IGT Colline del Genovesato and later in the DOC Golfo del Tigullio-Portofino. The name is of dialectal origin and means “cimiciato” or “spotted,” referring to the small spots on the berry, reminiscent of the markings on a stink bug (similarly, Pigato derives its name from the dialect word “picau,” meaning spotted). Scimiscià has ancient and mysterious origins, with very low yields, but its grapes are very high in sugar content, which historically made it useful for enriching the musts of less robust varieties.
Scimiscià produces not only dry wines but also excellent, though very rare, passito versions. Dry Scimiscià wines are pleasantly fruity, with citrus and floral notes, while on the palate, they are delightfully savory. These wines are, however, difficult to find, as the nursery production is currently very limited. It will take several years before Scimiscià wines from different producers and vintages become more widely available.
