The Picolit grape is a white variety native to Friuli, renowned worldwide for the splendid passito wine made from its grapes. Its origins are unknown, but it has long been famous in Friuli, even during the time of the Roman Empire. Since the 17th century, there have been records praising the sweetness of the wine made from this grape, with notable historical figures such as Carlo Goldoni describing it as a precious gem. The true rise of Picolit came in 1762, thanks to Count Fabio Asquini from Fagagna, who organized a successful trade of the passito wine across Europe, from London to Paris, Amsterdam to Moscow, and from the Imperial Court of Vienna to the Papal Court. It was often proposed as an alternative to the famous Hungarian Tokaji.
The success was so immense that counterfeits quickly appeared, and within a decade, the price soared to 40 times that of other wines. However, Picolit is a low-yielding grape, and as demand grew, the decline of this once-thriving wine began, especially due to the phylloxera epidemic that struck Friuli in 1888, nearly wiping out the grape variety. While its cultivation became scarce and disappeared from Veneto, it remains rooted in Friuli, particularly in the provinces of Udine and Gorizia. The name Picolit likely derives from the small size of its berries and clusters, and its low yield, which is further affected by a condition called acinellatura or floral abortion, resulting in spontaneous loss of fruit. Despite its vigor, this leads to low and inconsistent yields. However, these limited yields have the advantage of producing sweeter berries with intense aromas.
To mitigate the effects of acinellatura, Picolit is often planted alongside Verduzzo grapes to encourage cross-pollination, though this can sometimes risk genetic mutations. Since 2006, the Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG has been dedicated to this grape, located in Udine near the Slovenian border, an area renowned for its vine-friendly hills and plains with optimal vineyard exposures. The Rosazzo area is particularly noted for producing the best Picolit wines.
Ampelographically, Picolit has medium-sized, winged, pyramidal clusters with very few berries. The berries themselves are small, with green-golden skins covered in abundant pruina. Picolit ripens early, with harvests occurring between September and October. It is primarily vinified as a pure varietal, particularly for making excellent sweet wines, though there are some dry versions as well. These wines exhibit a deep straw-yellow color, with a complex bouquet ranging from wildflowers to almond, and fruity notes of peach and chestnut. On the palate, the wine is structured and elegant, with a full body. The extremely sweet berries of the passito version contribute a significant alcohol content, naturally reaching up to 16%, making Picolit a great wine for both meditation and dessert. Unfortunately, its low yield makes Picolit an expensive and rare wine to find on the market.
